Tonkotsu means pork bones, and the soup originated in Fukuoka on the Japanese island, Kyushu. This luscious stock pulls its decadent flavor from boiling pork bones over high heat for many hours, sometimes days. During this high boil, collagen from cartilage begins to emulsify fat and protein into the water of the soup, creating a cloudy, almost heavy broth. When chilled, the broth turns into a gel, as it is packed with collagen. In order to achieve this emulsification, we need to keep the heat high for a long period of time, here 18-24 hours seems to be the key in making a sumptuous broth. If one is pressed for time, a serviceable broth may be made in 12.
Ingredients
8 pounds pork bones (neck bones, femurs, hocks, feet all contain collagen, a combination works well)
½ to 1 pound chicken feet (optional, adds good collagen)
Water to cover the bones by a few inches
1 large white onion, halved
1 bulb garlic, separated into cloves, peeled, and smashed
2-3 inch piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
Instructions
- In order to achieve a whiter broth, a soak and blanch should be completed before cooking. Soak the bones overnight in a large container or pot filled with cold water to dissolve any blood.
- Pour out soaking liquid and add enough fresh water to a very large pot (10 quarts) to cover the bones by a few inches. Bring to a boil, and then back to a simmer. Skim any scum that rises to the surface, and continue doing so until no more scum rises.
- Once the scum has stopped rising, pour out the liquid again and scrub the bones clean under running water, looking for and discarding any dark matter. Clean the cooking pot of any remaining scum.
- Return the bones to the pot, add enough water to cover by a few inches. Turn up the heat and keep at a medium boil for 18-24 hours. At the beginning, keep adding water to maintain the original amount in the pot and then keeping checking the water level as you proceed.
- As you begin the last hour of simmering the broth, taste to check the mouth feel, and either boil it down or add more water.
- At this time, add the aromatics..,ginger, garlic and scallion. For another layer of flavor, its nice to sauté these ingredients for 5-7 minutes, without stirring, to brown the flavorings.
- Strain the broth. I usually start with a large colander to remove the bones and pieces, and then put the soup through a fine mesh to strain out any particulate matter.
- To drop the temperature quickly, put the pot in an ice bath and then refrigerate. Use straightaway in soup, decant in smaller containers and refrigerate or freeze.
- The broth should be completely homogenized, almost like skim milk, and so there is no need to skim the fat.
Excellent!